Team 5030 Reports From Peru

From Elisabeth Hein - GSE Team Member - April 15, 2008
Photos by Amy Lange (click photo to enlarge)

We arrived in Lima at 11:30 pm Sunday night and were met by our respective host families. We all went straight to our new homes in various parts of Lima. Each of us is staying in distinct neighborhoods that are relatively far from each other (at least 15 minutes driving). All the host families are very accommodating and have made us feel like their home is our own.

 
Monday was mostly a free day. Each of us did different things with our host families. Amy visited the Sacred Heart University, which is a private university where her host mother is a professor of Psychology. Amy had the opportunity to observe and participate in the onsite preschool which serves special needs children, most between the ages of 2 and 5 years. This preschool is using an inclusion model in which special needs kids are integrated with mainstream kids. The onsite school also provides occupational therapy, nutrition and hygiene education, and one-on-one as well as group settings for learning -- all which is monitored by the university students. Kay spent her day with her host Carlos Rioja, who took her to a vocational school that imparts practical skills to its students. The students spend up to a year getting real life use of their skills. Osho visited the law firm that his host parents run. The firm is quite large with a total of 35 employees. Osho also had a chance to walk around his neighborhood and found a martial arts school where he is thinking of getting involved with during his stay in Lima. Nicole spent the day with her host family seeing some of the neighborhoods of Lima and taking care of practicalities such as changing US dollars into Peruvian soles. The exchange rate right now is about 2.6 soles to $1. Apparently the rate has dropped significantly in just the past few weeks. Elisabeth had a relaxing afternoon enjoying homemade ceviche (prepared by her host father), pan fried calamari, and pisco sours. Pisco is a grape brandy that is special to the coastal region south of Lima.
 
Monday evening we all went to our welcome dinner at a typical chicken restaurant called La Hacienda. The chicken was baked and all reported that it was delicious. It was served with salad and french fries, and the favorite local beverage Inca Kola. This is made from an herb that gives the yellow colored soda a slight flavor of bubble gum. We were lucky to meet some of the members of the outgoing GSE team who will be leaving for Seattle in a week and a half. We also met several Rotarians who belong to the various clubs here in Lima that we will be visiting during our month-long stay. After dinner we arrived back at our homes around 11pm, which looks like it will be a foreshadowing of our daily schedules as most of the Rotary meetings in Lima are held in the evenings.
 
Tuesday started early (7am). Each team member was picked up at their respective homes and we met up with Jaime Davis, a member of the San Miguel Rotary Club. He was our tour guide for the day and brought us to see several of the projects with which his club is involved. The first place was an orphanage for young men with Down´s Syndrome. Their teacher, Patti, spoke with us about the center and the needs that they have. They focus on developing the skills of the students so that they can live a life of dignity within their handicaps. Four of the young men are on a track to become bakers. After the orphanage we visited a daycare center which serves children of preschool age. They are children from low-income families. Several of the Rotarian women volunteer at the center and also hold regular tea times to raise funds for the basic needs of the center.
 
The third education center we visited was the Ann Sullivan Center. This school serves a total of 450 students from the age range of 15 months to 45 years old, all of whom face learning, physical, or behavioral challenges. Individual plans are developed for each student and parents are required to meet with teachers in order to learn what can be done at home to improve the learning of their children. We were impressed by the variety of services provided such as a class for new parents and their babies, a ballet & theater program, a temporary apartment where families live and learn to handle behavioral issues with their children, and a special room where parents can talk and share about what parenting methods work for them.
 
We had a wonderful lunch of tamales, corn, sweet potato, beets, carrots, chicken, and a pineapple-cinnamon dessert. The mid-day meals are considered the main meal and are quite large, usually with several courses. Breakfast and dinner are relatively light.
 
The afternoon was spent touring a water treatment plant which is also supported by the San Martin Rotary club. This plant is the largest in the country and is operated by the state. We were fascinated to learn about the purification system of the water that is used by all of Lima, a city of 8.5 million. The water all comes from the River Rimac which starts in the Andes mountains. From there it passes through various terrain (including the mining region) until it reaches the outskirts of Lima. At the plant, it is processed thoroughly and monitored at every stage. By the time it reaches people´s homes in the city, it is completely potable. The problem is, however, that individual home´s plumbing systems are often contaminated and it is at that point that the water becomes undrinkable.
 
After a long day of various tours, we went to Jaime Davis´ home to rest a little before the next event. Jaime and his wife Liliana, were wonderful hosts telling us about various aspects of Peruvian culture like music, dance, and food. The team members had a little time to rehearse for our first presentation which would be later that night.
 
Before dinner and the San Martin Rotary Club meeting, we stopped at a fire station. All of Peru´s firefighters are volunteers. We were impressed by the dedication these men and women give to their service as firefighters. They do not receive much funding from the government and instead have to rely on donations. For example, this particular neighborhood fire station is using a fire truck donated from Japan, whose fire engines typically don´t have a tank to hold water. Therefore the engine has been used more for rescue and emergencies rather than putting out fires.
 
Around 8pm we arrived at the Chinese-Peruvian restaurant for the San Martin Club meeting. This club has about 14 members and has been in existence for 50 years. Two of the founding members still participate, and one of them -- Pepito -- bakes a cake every single week that the club makes. Tonight's cake was an anise seed pound cake which was delicious. Our dinner was fried rice, sweet and sour chicken, deep fried wontons with tamarind sauce, an egg and vegetable tortilla, and white fish with ginger sauce. We gave our presentation for the first time in Lima to a very attentive audience. We even pulled off our song in Spanish which goes to the tune of the Brady Bunch theme song.
 
We were dropped off at our homes arriving almost at midnight. It was an amazing day full of experiences none of us could have imagined had we tried. We´ve been enjoying the mild weather as it´s been about 70 and sunny with a bit of humidity. It must be this weather that makes the plants here flourish. So far we have seen quite a variety such as eucalyptus, hibiscus, jacaranda, gardenia, bouganvillea, palm, and cactus.

 

Wednesday, April 16

 The morning began in the municipal office of Pueblo Libre (one of Lima´s districts) where our team met the mayor. While talking with him over Peruvian red wine, we learned about the district, its budgetary challenges, successes and concerns. The mayor described how although there is not always the financial means to acquire necessities for his district, he is good at forming relationships, which has brought success. For example, Pueblo Libre is currently partnering with a gas company who wants to put in pipes under the streets, but will cause some inconvenience to the streets in order to do this. So in exchange for allowing the gas company to install the lines, the municipality has asked them to provide police officers to monitor security on the streets to make the neighborhood a safer place. We left the mayor´s office and took photos in the central plaza outside.
 
Next, we visited a primary school built entirely by the Rotary. This school is currently facing capacity issues as there are not enough classrooms or teachers to serve the population of students adequately. The minimum class size is 32 children. We stopped in to talk with one class of about forty 3rd graders who were packed into the room at long tables. They were all very cute in their blue and white uniforms and excited to talk with us. Individual kids raised their hands to ask us about Seattle and what we thought of Peru. One kid asked us to sing our national anthem, which we did, high notes and all!
 
The other Rotary project visited in Pueblo Libre was to a small clinic which serves low-income people of all ages. The facility has a great need for updated equipment because they are currently using dental equipment and x-ray equipment that is decades old. Also, they have had to shut down their gynecology room and pediatrics room due to poor plumbing that risks leaking into electric lines.
 
For lunch we went to La Antigua Taberna Queirolo, which is attached to the winery-distillery of the same name. We tasted a variety of pisco, wine, and sangria. As mentioned in the previous report, pisco is a grape brandy made in the southern coastal area of Peru. It´s clear and strong, and is commonly taken as a mixed drink (called pisco sour) with lime, egg white, and cane syrup. Almost everyone we´ve met has made sure to ask us if we´ve tried pisco since it´s the national drink. Our lunch was a sampling of regional foods such as green tamales, stuffed potatoes, fresh cheese, pork, sausage, and French bread. This tavern has not changed its menu for 60 years because customers like what is served and they like to know they can go in and expect the same choices and quality as always.
 
We were jovially consuming this delicious meal when our first (and hopefully only) unfortunate event occurred. Our team member, Amy, realized she didn't have her purse. It had been stolen from off the back of her chair, and as the restaurant was quite busy, no one noticed the purse being taken. Inside was her passport, $300 worth of cash, her credit cards, and other belongings. The mayor´s office was extremely helpful to Amy so she was able to contact credit card companies and the US embassy quickly. The mayor also helped expedite the process of getting the official police report to Amy so that her passport replacement won't be delayed at the embassy. We were all a bit shocked and surprised that such a thing could happen in a relatively safe part of town, but now are all extra-vigilant about keeping bags very close to the body at all times and leaving important documents and large amounts of cash at home.
 
After Amy and Kay took care of making phone calls and we had all decompressed a bit, we went on to visit an anthropology museum near the town center. We learned about the history of the various indigenous groups that have populated Peru, and saw a wide variety of pottery, jewelry, and stonework made by the different cultures that have thrived throughout the history of the country. Then, as at the end of any sunny day of travel should be, it was time for gelato. Violeta, Pueblo Libre´s Rotary president, took us to one of her favorite gelato places and treated us each to two large scoops.
 
The Rotary club meeting of the evening was held at the Pueblo Libre club. After giving our presentation, the members asked us to perform another song in addition to our regular tune, so we sang America the Beautiful. None of us had sang this song in years but somehow the words came back to us easily and our audience was pleased.

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Chicha morada is a juice made from the dark purple corn that only grows in Peru and Bolivia. The corn is boiled and the deep, rich color bleeds out into the water, then is mixed with cinnamon, clove, sugar, and lime. We drank about four pitchers of this delicious concoction today. Other culinary delights included typical dishes at a restaurant called Las Mesitas. We tried Tacu Tacu (fried rice with beans and fried egg on top), tallarines salados (salted noodles with meat and vegetables), breaded chicken, ceviche, tamales, potatoes with cheese sauce, and churrasco (type of steak) with rice. Lucho, one of the Rotary members who spent all day with us, took us to a large supermarket chain to show us the multitude of local produce, seafood, pastries, and wine. It was a happy day for all of our palates. Lucho was extremely generous with his time as he drove out of his way to show us different parts of Lima (business districts, parks, etc). We are now starting to become more oriented to the countless parts of this huge city that seems to extend forever.
 
The Rotary projects we saw today all focused on education. The first place was an organization called SUMBI, which serves children from 0-5 years old and deeply values the concept of children being socially integrated at an early age. The facility is a daycare and serves low-income families in the Barranco neighborhood on a sliding scale. We then visited a school that works with older students with special needs and disabilities. The facility offers unique services such as physical therapy and vocational skills training. Students can learn how to do baking, and some work making brooms to sell. The third place we visited was an education center which complements the regular school day. All students who attend fit a certain at-risk profile and are referred by the public schools. The center works closely with parents to help students achieve a variety of social, academic, and behavioral goals.
 
Barranco is known as the neighborhood where writers and artists reside. It sits on the coastal edge of Lima, overlooking the ocean. Many of the homes in this area are colonial style and painted bright colors. We were fortunate to visit the Pedro de Osma Museum which is located in the Osma mansion. This house was inhabited by the Osma family until the 1980s. It now houses the Osma art collection which consists of countless paintings in the style of the Cuzco and Lima schools. Most of the art is religious and was influenced by the iconic paintings of Europe (i-e., virgen and child depictions). However, a great many of the paintings in the Osma collection were painted by anonymous artists. And many of the subjects depicted in these paintings vary from what you might see in a painting done by a European artist from the same time period. The religious figures of the Cuzco school were shown as having black, curly hair (similar to that of the indigenous people of the area), and pink cheeks (indicative of the cold weather characteristic to Cuzco).
 
Our presentation at the Barranco Rotary Club went well because we finally were able to use a projector to show the Powerpoint and all the photos we have to illustrate who we are and where we come from. The Brady Bunch song has been without guitar accompaniment, but it seems to please the crowd nonetheless. We found out today we will be performing something at the talent show of the district conference in two weeks. Maybe a Beatles song? Any suggestions? :)

 

Friday, April 18, 2008

Just got back home after another amazing day of taking it all in. We´ve typically finished our days around 11pm. I´ll go backwards with the storytelling tonight.
 
Since all of us are staying with host families in various neighborhoods that are not so close together, transportation is a challenge. Tonight Osho and Elisabeth had to stop by one of the Rotary clubs to catch a ride home with one of the Rotary members. While we waited, some of the members of the club asked us if we could sing the National Anthem for them so they could hear the correct English pronunciation. They are practicing for the district conference where they´ll be singing both the US and Peruvian National Anthems. I think now we are also going to perform these two songs with them and there might even be a costume involved. So far I think we have sung something every day that we´ve been here.
 
Tonight we went to see the Caballos de Paso, which are the Peruvian horses that trot and dance in their special way. They´re very graceful and you really can´t believe how these animals move their feet the way they do. The event was held at an outdoor stadium just a few blocks from the water. The nights are quite cool and humid compared to the daytime. The show included various traditional dances from different parts of Peru. In between the acts, a lively singer and a live band entertained us with songs. Around the field were several snack stands and huge Inca Kola signs. Kay, Amy, and Osho were offered one of the typical foods there that was a kabob of sorts. After eating the meat they found out it was cow heart. Nicole and Elisabeth were relieved to be in their role as vegetarians.
 
Prior to the horse show we spent some time talking with some members of the Rotary Club of Nuestra Señora de la Gracia. We learned about a project they are piloting that proposes "E-learning" for the schools of Lima. This would be an implementation of computer-based learning at all levels to improve and evaluate academic progress of students. It will be a challenge because of the cost of the technology and the amount of training that teachers will need. We learned that only around 20% of Lima´s teachers are proficient enough in computers to be able to implement the computer curriculum with their students. However, the promise of laptops to schools will serve as motivation for teachers to get trained.
 
We visited a school this afternoon which had classes of mixed grades. Each of us was placed in a different classroom and were asked to talk with the students about our impressions of Peru and to speak with them in English. Osho and Nicole were in a classroom of older students who were very up to date on politics and current events. One student asked if Michael Jackson was gay. Amy and Elisabeth were each in a classroom with middle school aged students and also answered questions in addition to teaching the kids the song,¨"Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes". Kay went to the classroom with the youngest students and was surprised at the amount of English they knew at such a young age.
 
Lunch was at a Chifa restaurant where we ate family style. Interesting dishes of noodles, rice, quail egg, mushrooms, pork, chicken, shrimp and vegetables. Three Rotary members from the Nuestra Señora de Gracia joined us as well as two of their adult daughters. We talked about the elections in the states, paragliding, basketball, botany, and many other topics. One of the daughters is a singer and is planning to try out for Latin American Idol next year in Buenos Aires. Almost all of the Rotary members and their children have been to the United States or have relatives who live there.
 
Earlier in the day we visited the National Library which is located in a very modern building. The original library was founded in 1821 by the national leader San Martin who believed that reading was the way to freedom. We learned about the misfortunes in the history of Peru´s library collection. In 1879, during the war with Chile, 40,000 books were taken to Chile. Our guide told us that during the invasion the pages of books were used to wrap fish! Only 4,000 have been returned. In 1943, a fire destroyed many of the library´s books, and those that weren´t burned were ironically damaged by the water used to put out the fire. The new library has a lot of storage space which is climatized and can protect many of the older periodicals and documents. The National Library holds the first book printed in South America, the Doctrina Cristiana, which was printed in 1584. Now, to make sure the public can always enjoy the literary riches of its country, there is a law that says that two copies of all books and periodicals printed in Peru must be donated to the National Library.
 
The first activity of the day was a visit to Peru´s most read newspaper, El Comercio. The group was able to see the massive printing equipment and learn about how the paper gets produced each day. We are hoping that later in the month we will be able to visit the editorial office of El Comercio.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Today we didn´t wear our uniforms because we weren´t scheduled to present at any of the Rotary Club meetings. When we met up, Nicole almost didn´t recognize the other team members because we were wearing something other than the grey pants, white shirts, and black blazers.
 
After a morning free (and getting to sleep in), everyone met at Antonella´s house. Antonella is the team leader for the outgoing GSE to Seattle. Their group will be leaving in a week and it was a chance for all of us to see each other before they left and to talk about Seattle and Lima, and learn a little about each other´s respective professions, hopes and expectations for the program. The lunch we had at the house was delicious and included a new dish for us called causa, which is sort of a casserole made with mashed potatoes, egg, and chicken. Elisabeth accidentally ate some, thinking it was fish, and also thinking it was very tasty. We also had pisco sours and sampled two types of Peruvian red wine. The desserts were to die for: arroz con leche, chocolate cake with lucuma (a type of citrus fruit) frosting, and alfajores (cookies) with dulce de leche sandwiched inside. The large meal in the middle of the afternoon is turning out to be a great way to slow down time and relax with good conversation. Very much appreciated after eating on the run so often in the states. 
 
At sunset we went off to see a water-light show near downtown Lima. This park opened recently and has an array of fountains that light up with music. We took a leisurely stroll through the maze of fountains and tried to stay dry near the ones that allow audience participation.
 
The main event of the evening was Las Brisas del Titicaca. There is nothing quite comparable to this that I´ve ever heard of in the US. It´s a dance show that combines performances of regional Peruvian dances with a live band that plays salsa, cumbia, and andean music in between the dance numbers. When the band plays, the audience flocks to the dance floor and busts out their moves like there´s no tomorrow. The song ends and then the brightly colored costumed professional dancers come back out and performed a choreographed number. The audience goes back to their tables to drink and eat until the next dancing opportunity. It alternates like this from 11pm until 3:00 in the morning. At a certain point in the evening, the MC called all people from the United States out onto the dance floor and we got led around by the professional dancers in a flowing line that snaked and weaved around and around as we held on for dear life. Then we got our pictures taken with some of the dancers. We were fortunate to be able to attend this as one of the Rotarians is a founding member of Las Brisas, and got us all in as her special guests. She told us about how the building is also used to host lunches for low-income folks from the outskirts of Lima. She´s been very active with a variety of projects to help those less fortunate and says she´s been blessed with being in a position to give to others.

 

 Today was our first free day after several days of intense and interesting programs coordinated by individual Rotary clubs. Each of us did something a little different. Here are the brief summaries of our respective experiences:
 
Nicole had a very relaxing day attending a barbeque with her host family. She learned how to make pisco sours. She also learned that Peru may be one of the only countries that like Republicans for their support of the free trade agreement which supports the Peruvian economy.
 
Osho went to see a surfing competition in the neighborhood of Miraflores. He said the waves were pretty small compared to what you´d expect to see in a competition. He also attended a birthday party of one of his host family´s friends. At the party he tried grilled cow stomach. And finally, he was able to acquire a Lonely Planet guide to Peru at a local bookstore.
 
Amy went to an area called Chosica with her host family. This area is known to always be sunny even when Lima is covered with clouds and mist. It´s located in the foothills of the Andes where many fruits and plants grow in the sunny climate. Amy visited a cemetery, a market (where she saw cuy -- cooked guinea pig -- for the first time), tried avocado ice cream, saw traditional music being played and danced to, went paddle boating, viewed a mini model of the city of Lima, attended a party for the Mayor of Chosica, ate pizza, and went to a country club to relax. She probably had the longest day of us all, lasting from 8am to 11pm.
 
Kay and Elisabeth joined Blanca and Carlos Riojas to spend the day in the same area where Amy went, but a few kilometers away in a town called Chaclacayo. The sun shines year round there as well. Blanca and Carlos have a country home with a myriad of flora including a giant pointsettia, an avocado tree, a lucuma tree, and a little grove of papyrus. They stopped in the town center to see a dance competition of various groups from different regions of Peru performing traditional dances. There was a small market made up of stalls where you could purchase handicrafts and snacks. Elisabeth got her palm read and found out she´s going to live to be 90 years old. Earlier in the day Kay, Elisabeth, and Blanca visited central downtown Lima where the oldest of the city´s colonial architecture can still be seen. They watched the changing of the guard in front of the National Palace and had the chance to see many of Lima´s beautiful churches.
 
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Monday, April 21

 Carlos and Blanca Riojas have been so generous with their time and hospitality, welcoming the GSE team with so much warmth and enthusiasm. Carlos was the former District Governor for District 4450, and Blanca is the incoming president of her club as well as the coordinator for next year´s incoming GSE program. They used to live in Seattle for over 20 years and have strong connections with the the Seattle area Rotary clubs. To thank Carlos and Blanca for all they have done for us, Kay had the idea to make them a dinner. We went to a local supermarket, an adventure in itself. We purchased olives, cheese, bread, pasta, vegetables, tomatoes, wine, fruit, and ice cream. Nicole, who loves to cook, designed a lovely pasta dinner for all of us, which was comfort food after a week of sampling so many new dishes. Walking from the apartment to the supermarket was also an adventure as we had to perfectly time our crossing of each busy street at rush hour. Stop lights and pedestrian signals weren't really in operation for our purposes.
 
Earlier in the day, we visited the University of Lima, a private university of about 13,000 students. It is modern, urban, and prestigious and considered the best place to attend for business and engineering. Although the campus is small, it´s impressive with many fountains and considerable green space (filled with eucalyptus trees). They are even doing the reverse of what we might see in the states: tearing down a parking lot to create a park! We were lucky to have a thorough tour and to see students in action, including a look at the communication department where students were practicing for a radio show, and another classroom where students were making music recordings. Public universities in Peru are free and focus more in the humanities. For those interested in business and technology careers, private universities are more choice.
 
Lunch today was at the Naval Club. Frida Arbuco, the president of Rotary Club Barranco, treated us to an elegant atmosphere at the club where her husband, Juan, is a member. We took a stroll around the grounds to see the larger-than-Olympic-sized pool, tennis courts, and sauna called "La Evaporada".
 
Amy got her replacement passport today! She found the process to be much quicker than anticipated. Having gone in to the embassy at 8AM with her passport photos and the police report with details of the robbery, she returned at 4PM to pick up the new passport. Despite the misfortune of the event of having her passport and money stolen, we´ve been amused continuously by the police report in which her name (Amy Marie Lange) was misspelled as ANY Marie LARGE. The US Embassy used to be located in central Lima, but it was too exposed to the public, so it got moved to the east side of town where it now is in a monolith of a building surrounded by palm trees and guards everywhere. You cannot even take a photo from across the four-lane highway. We also learned it is painted with special paint so it cannot be detected by surveillance, so it can't be known when the ambassador is or isn´t on site.
 
Osho took the afternoon to check out the Jiu Jitsu place located in his neighborhood. He was able to work on a few techniques with the friendly people who practice there. It´s not uncommon to get a few nicks and scratches in this martial art, and Osho went home with blood on his shirt from a bloody nose. His host family was surprised upon seeing him with blood stains but it spurred interesting dialogue regarding Osho´s life. He found that his host family perhaps realized other dimensions of his life and would now see him as more dynamic than he may have previously been perceived. Osho is planning to seek out the best place to practice Jiu Jitsu in Lima, one where he can have more opportunities to compete.
 
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Tuesday, April 22

Today we were shown around by the Rotary club of La Molina, which is an upper middle class suburb of Lima located to the northeast. It is interesting because it borders an area that is characterized by extreme poverty. The La Molina club has taken on two major projects that serve the people in this zone of poverty, which we visited today.
 
First, a note about the outskirts of Lima. After the terrorism that affected many areas of Peru in the 70s and 80s, many people from rural areas migrated towards Lima. They settled in squatter colonies along the main thoroughfares, contructing shacks piled onto the dusty hills. They are referred to as "invaders" since none of them have titles to the land where they live and because of this, the government cannot legally provide services such as water, plumbing, electricity, etc. However, the government does give small allowances to those who paint their homes, which is why you can see bright colors dotting the otherwise drab inclines.
 
The neighborhood we went to first, Manchay, is the site of the La Molina club´s more recent project. The Rotary provided major support to construct a school for the children of Manchay. The kids (1st-6th grade) come walking over the hills to learn in the small classrooms each day. Most of the children come from single mother homes and families who suffer domestic violence. Many parents help out around the school by cleaning, helping with construction, etc. Students receive a daily free breakfast of milk and bread made with potato flour as part of the Vaso de Leche program. The school is still being constructed to add more rooms but there are currently about 6 classrooms in full use that are cheerfully decorated. We stopped in to visit each classroom where we were sung to by the children a different song each class had prepared for us. In turn, we sang them some songs in English (the Itsy Bitsy Spider, Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, and our favorite -- Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes). The director of the school, Delia, was absolutely inspirational. She has a heart of gold and so much dedication to these children and families. Seeing what she and the Rotary have done with this school -- essentially creating it from scratch in just 5 years -- is proof of the goodwill of the community and the shared value in education and a positive future for all children.
 
We next visited a school that was founded in 1991, also constructed by the Rotary of La Molina. This one is located in a middle class neighborhood, is a public school, but the students all come from the area of Manchay as well as other extremely impoverished neighborhoods nearby. It serves 70 students, all with special needs such as autism and Down´s syndrome. The small campus was beautiful, comprised of brick huts used as workshops and classrooms. Class sizes were generally small to emphasize individualized education for students. Like the school in Manchay, this school is also supported by parents in ways such as painting and fixing things on the grounds. Many of the students are teenagers and are on a more vocational track such as gardening, ceramics, or cooking, and the idea is that they can learn skills that will be beneficial to them as citizens once they leave school.
 
We had a delicious lunch at the Rinconada Country Club before setting off to visit the Pachacamac Ruins in the afternoon. The ruins are located about half an hour´s drive from Lima, south on the coastal road and into the desert. We could automatically feel the change in climate, the cooler air and the aridity. We learned about the people who lived in this relatively large city (about 20,000 inhabitants), viewed the remains of temples and dwellings, and saw some of the artifacts that were excavated only 40 years ago. From the hill where the ruins sit, you can see the ocean as well as the fertile river valley below. This was our first experience seeing ruins from any of the pre-Columbian civilizations of Peru, and all of us were very impressed.
 
 
The Monterrico Surco Rotary Club brought us today to the village of Villa Maria de Triunfo. We visited the school of Parochia Santa Ana, which serves primary grades from the surrounding community. The school is still in the process of being constructed (they are currently adding a second floor), putting in electricity, and is adjacent the town church. Also located there is a small clinic. Father Anthony Wilson does mass at the church and also travels to other churches in the area on different days to provide mass for other communities. One of the other communities we visited was built up onto a hillside with metal staircases running the length of the hill to the dirt road. The staircase railings were all painted yellow and stood out against the muted colors of the homes. The yellow color was chosen by the mayor to represent that they were put in by the municipality. The communities we visited have only been around for 10-15 years and sprung up out of people migrating to the Lima area. They are essentially squatter settlements as the inhabitants do not have rights to the property on which they live.
 
The second half of the day we spent at a club near the water, enjoying a Chifa lunch with Rotarians. We walked along the malecon and photographed the many colorful fishing boats in the harbor.
 
In the evening, we attended the Rotary meeting in which we learned about the Gift of Life program, with which Monterrico Surco is very involved. The Rotary raises money to send infants with heart disease to the United States to be operated on. Tonight we met one mother and her baby who received the donation including airfare to fly to the states for the baby to get surgery. The mother expressed her thanks profusely as her child's life depends on this surgery. Some of the families who apply for this program unfortunately suffer the loss of the child before arrangements can be made for the surgery to take place. It was both heartbreaking and hopeful to see this mother and child on the eve of their departure to save the baby's life.
 

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